A few ideas to start with
The institutionalization of gastronomy has meant that those who do not agree with the “official” paradigms of food get left out. Nowadays, to be marginal is not a disadvantage; on the contrary, it is to take a place at the table where the air flows, simply, its own way.
The trade union structures of medieval times were supplanted by a patronage system that today is called, perversely, private initiative. It would seem that the possibility of expressing oneself through food is subjected to a system that legitimizes or rejects a culinary manifestation. Nothing more false. The kitchen belongs to the one who uses it.
The uses and habits surrounding food are one of the few outlets we have left to exert our individuality and declare ourselves a part of a conscious community.